Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn’t you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!

Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I’ll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.

Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜

Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.

As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn’t make a huge difference, as long as it’s from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.

Thanks for your help!

Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!

This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.

What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.

It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357

Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you’re looking for.

If that freehub is constructed like the ones I’ve taken apart before, you’re out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.

You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won’t work if it’s very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don’t want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

IIRC, this is actually done at some point in the books.

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).

Windows is clearly superior. If you’ve had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!

It is more efficient to have a ship moving with cargo than without, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t additional emissions. The ratio of profit to effort is just higher because there is some profit as opposed to none. You wouldn’t load a ship up with useless mass you can’t sell just so you’re shipping something.

Your argument is like always running the heater in your car because that way the engine heat is at least used for something. Yes, technically the efficiency goes up because more of the energy in the fuel is harnessed. But that doesn’t mean the fuel usage or emissions are any lower, and in the summer the heater doesn’t do you any good either.

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)

I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.

That study states that brain damage can cause more conservative views, but the reverse isn’t true. Not everyone with conservative views has brain damage.

Tightening the belts seems to have helped, but I will have to do some more printing to be sure. Thanks for your help!

The belts are parallel to the axis, but I will try tightening them some more.

This is a 40x40 cube printed in vase mode:

The corners look pretty okay on that:

But I don’t see these kind of results on real-world parts. I guess I have to print some more test parts to narrow down the problem.

That might be part of it, my filament is probably pretty wet. I’ll try some other rolls of filament.

The part is just pretty small, I have the EW set to 0.45 mm withe 0.4 nozzle. But I will try turning it down further.

The rounding looks much more extreme than what I would expect or have seen on other printers I worked with (mostly Ultimakers).